Staffelter Hof, Little Bastard, Mosel, Germany

This is not what you'd expect from the Mosel. But then the label, showing a wolf reclining in what looks like a rubber dinghy, glass in hand, would suggest this is not taut, old skool Riesling. Jan Matthias Klein does actually make beautiful and more conventional wines at Staffelter Hof but this is from a range of more "experimental" wines that explore new avenues but all end up being amazing. This is a blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Muller Thurgau and Muscat fermented separately with light skin contact of just a few hours. It's assembled in an old oak foudre where it undergoes full malolactic fermentation and is then racked and bottled by hand to retain a little natural sparkle. Dry, invigorating, scented with white flowers, citrus, lychee. A true original.